MICRODERMABRASIONS

There are two basic methods of altering the surface of the skin: chemical and physical. Chemical alterations are accomplished by applying acids to the skin causing the cells of the stratum corneum to separate and slough off. Superficial chemical peels using glycolic and salicylic acid make the skin smooth and soft by this mechanism. Another mechanism of removing the stratum corneum cells is to physically rub, blast or grind them off. This physical type of removal is used in microdermabrasion and dermabrasion

Microdermabrasion theory

Microdermabrasion operates on the premise that encouraging exfoliation of the skin is desirable. The word “micro” is used to separate this procedure from true dermabrasion, where the deeper layers of the skin are removed. By using a motorized brush system or bombarding the skin with high-speed particles, it is possible to remove desquamating corneocytes, and make the skin smoother and softer with a better color. It is important not to go any deeper into the skin than the first few layers of stratum corneum to avoid scarring and other problems. Microdermabrasion can be used by trained skin care professionals because it does not enter the living layers of the skin; any procedure that enters the living layers of the skin and causes bleeding should be performed by a physician.
Microdermabrasion improves the appearance of several aspects of the skin, such as increased pigment, which may be contained in the outer corneocytes. This pigment may make the skin look freckled due to the presence of lentigenes, the medical term for brown spots, and scaling brown growths, known as seborrheic keratoses. Microdermabrasion can remove the skin scale that contains the pigment, making the skin more evenly colored. However, it is possible for the lentigenes and seborrheic keratoses to reappear as the skin cells again produce irregular pigment, making the improvement temporary.
There is some evidence that repeated microdermabrasion can have a longer-lasting impact on the amount of ground substance in the skin responsible for holding water. The minor skin injury induced by microdermabrasion may cause wounding that encourages the skin to heal. This healing can stimulate the replacement of skin structure and improve the appearance of photoaged skin. Controlled wounding is the reason both dermabrasion and laser resurfacing improve skin appearance. This same effect is seen to a much lesser degree with microdermabrasion, especially if the procedure is repeated every two to four weeks.

By: Zoe Draelos, MD, and Peter T. Pugliese, MD

In addition, as the skin ages, the bonds between the cells do break easily, and dead skin can accumulate. This is why exfoliation produces a benefit in mature skin. Microdermabrasion can return the skin exfoliation process to a normal rate if performed on a recurring basis. Between treatments, exfoliant-containing moisturizers with alpha or beta hydroxy acids can be used to maintain the result until the next microdermabrasion session.
Microdermabrasion is a valuable technique for the esthetician to master. It can be used in both young and old clients. Treatments result in improved skin texture, smoothness, pigmentation and possibly function, however microdermabrasion must be properly and safely performed.